Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat
I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.
About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.
I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)
The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.
Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.
Thanks for being here.
phil w. (Dorf)
Views: 36080
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by tungsten on
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Confused......
You said your springs were underslug?Your picture shows overslung.With the bend in the axle upside down..
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Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on
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Well your right and the second person today to tell me that. My son stopped by this afternoon and said the same thing. So for now it stays that way until the paint is dry and I have the time and desire to switch the axle around.
I kinda figured something was wrong when it turned out to be too tall. The top of the rails is 24" to the floor and the hitch on my truck is only 21", don't want it going forward downhill.
Anyhow thanks for your comments,
Dorf
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I notice also how tall your hangers are and you have your shackels vertical.Were these supplied with the axel?Shorter hangers and a bit of angel to your shackels would also lower the frame.
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Tungsten,
The guys who built the axle also sold me a shackle kit, springs, etc. The rear shackle isn't vertical. It has some angle, they recommended the rear shackle bolt hole be 1" behind the spring's rear 's hole. That's the way I did it. That's ok by me, so far.
I think mounting the axle on top of the spring will do what I need it to.
Thanks, for your input, this is my first DB trailer and so far I am satisfied. Only regret is I didn't make it easy to wire the lights with the harness in the frame. Still some time required in the moaning chair on that one.
Dorf
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Dorf, after finding considerable rust within my trailer frame where holes passed through the frame from bottom to top I am wondering if the tradeoff between protection and damage is worth it. I have used adhesive backed plastic "attachment" points to run wire on other trailers with variable results. I used the plastic corrugated wrap to protect the wiring where I didn't run it through "funny pipe" (sprinkler connection tubing) I'll see how it works. I think your trailer will be fine. I have found most of trailer wiring problems at the lights and at the trailer connector.
Your trailer is looking great and will carry your boat in style.
Rick N
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Rick,
Thanks for your input, it has caused me to think ( "funny pipe") and I am going to look at some smaller dia tubing to run the wires in. I am thinking of copper tubing..... It can be bent in nice corners and they have standard clamps that can be used to mount it to the frame. Need to look into it some more, eh.
There's still lots of time to do it as now I am switching priorities and will be working on getting the bottom on the boat. Starting Thursday.
I have a buddy who needs a first mate tomorrow to go Walleye fishing on the Saginaw Bay. It's his shakedown cruise with a new Lund Boat. A guy's gotta do what a Guy's gotta do.
Dorf
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Dorf, I hear walleyes can be taken with flies. What are you gonna use? Years ago when I tried to catch walleyes out here I tried the gear that the Lindamen (sp?) brothers esposed in In-Fisherman magazine. I didn't have much luck but I had fun. Bottom walkers, nitecrawler harnesses and such.
What about the grey plastic pipe used for outdoor wiring, it comes in flexible and straight with a variety of connectors, some of which are almost watertight.
Rick
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Rick,
I haven't tried flies in the Summer, but have, Jigging through the Ice in Winter. Not too much success though, with flies.
This time of year in the post-spawn, plastics are a good bait. Hot-N-Tots, and similar baits. We'll start there.
There are a lot of folks who drag crawlers with bottom bouncers with spinners (crawler harnesses). It works. We use In-line planer boards to get the baits out side the boat and separate the lines. It's not uncommon to see guys pulling 6-8 lines behind a boat. Gets kinda harry when there are a lot of boats in a local area.
I looked at the Grey Electrical Conduit, too large dia for my liking. I can get hydraulic steel tubing in smaller diameters (1/2, 3/4" dia) and am going to look into that and copper. The method of support and fittings will make the difference. I think the corrugated plastic might work between the steel sections????
I might even look at S.S. Tubing as it comes in same dia's. as steel. Tougher to bend, but know a few skilled trades guys who did this for a living and have the needed tools.
Lots of time to make a choice.
Thanks for your and others comments, theur welcomed.
Dorf
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My 35 yr. old son who I used to advise on how to do "it" has now reversed the roles and after some discussion (asking his opinion) with him, he has advised me to scrap the idea of adding metal or plastic conduit to "hide" the trailer's wiring.
So I chose to bite the bullet and drill a few holes in the frame to thread the wires there. His convincing argument was, he'll bring my 1/2 Milwaukee Drill over and drill them for me. Experience tells me I'll have to go get it and do it myself.....
Also I managed to get the axle correctly installed and it looks a whole lot better.
Here's a couple of pics:
Wife picked out the final color, who's to argue, eh.
The wiring and the roller are to the two major unfinished items. It's time to get back to the boat. At least I'll have a place to store it after the bottom's complete.
Dorf
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Finally! The trailer is complete, except for the mounting of the rear Roller. Today I mounted the Rear Turn/Stop Lights and wired them. I routed the wiring within the frame. Was a two day job drilling holes and fishing wires through the openings.
Here's a pic of the trailer a couple of days ago w/o tail lights. Was raining all day today and I didn't take a picture of it as is.
Tomorrow I'll be getting the DB out and returning to getting the bottom on it so I can start using the trailer.
Go wings!
Dorf
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Oops!
GO Hawks!
Dorf
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